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Travel Diaries - Isle of Mull Day 1

  • Writer: Lindsay Galloway-Hall
    Lindsay Galloway-Hall
  • 7 days ago
  • 3 min read
A white sign on top of a passenger ferry with black text stating "Ulva Ferry" and prices, with a view of The Boathouse across the water in the background.

Turns out, my great, great, great, great, great-grandfather came from a wee village in the north of the isle of Mull.


Turns out, as soon as I arrived, having never visited before, it felt like home.


I really do love visiting new parts of Scotland, but this trip was particularly special - three generations (my dad, me and my nephew) - following in our ancestors' footsteps...I kind of get our North Americans cousins' obsession with that now!


Of course a trip to anywhere in Scotland comes with predictably unpredictable weather - from chilly, drizzly mornings to glorious sunshine and afternoon clouds...of midges.


My favourite short-sleeve/long-sleeve combo, the Green Bay hoodie plus Mill Bay tee, was the perfect mix for our first day on the island.


Calgary Bay


First up, a visit to the sheltered white sands and blue waters of Calgary Bay to the north west.


Though a couple of people were camping in the nearby car park, we had the beach to ourselves, racing my dad's dog Jura along the sand - she had an absolute ball.


While pretty common on the Scottish coastline, I don't think I'll ever get used to seeing sheep on the beach🐏


Ulva


Our next stop took a bit of scenic winding up and over the hills, avoiding more sheep and a majestic Highland cow and her calf, then down the coastline to the Ulva ferry landing.


In true small-isle fashion, you summon the tiny passenger ferry with a sliding sign that can be seen by the ferryman across the water on Ulva - a really lovely 2-minute journey sprinkled with some local knowledge from the island's ferryman and postman, Rhuri.


He's the last person born on the island to still live there, and told us of when the population of the island was down to just 5 people - him and his wife, 2 kids, and one other person. It's now quadrupled to a whopping 16 people, partly, it seems, due to the popularity of The Boathouse, newly refurbished by owners Sam (farmer and food producer), Banjo (interior decorator) and Ro (cheesemaker and distiller).


The second season of series Banjo & Ro's Grand Island Hotel, which sees them continue work on the ambitious restoration of Ulva House, a crumbling mansion on the island, will drop in 2027. In the meantime, The Boathouse's vibe, food and scenery are impeccable.



Between us we enjoyed coffees and hot chocolate before our hike out into the hills, then sampled the cullen skink, the scallops and the smoked fish plate on our return - generous, delicious portions, served with a spectacular homemade bread that'll haunt my dreams.



With the amount of early summer rain, our walk was a muddy, splashy affair, though the sun came out about halfway through. We checked out Sheila's Cottage, then headed to the church, followed the Minister's Walk uphill through the trees and across the moorlands, then looped back to join the Woodlands Walk and Farm Circuit back to the ferry (all signposted).


Satellite image of the easter portion of Ulva, showing a loop marked in red going from The Boathouse to Ulva Church, towards the Standing Stone of Ulva, back towards Ulva House, past Barry's B&B and back to The Boathouse.

With stops for photographs (and a quick jog back to collect my jacket from where I forgot it!) it took us around 2 hours. There's still so much to see on Ulva that a return trip in the future may well be needed...


Our lunch back at The Boathouse was blessed with glorious sunshine, so sitting outside at the picnic benches overlooking the water was ideal. A much drier ferry ride back, a quick stop to check out the Mull Nature Craft shop-in-a-trailer in the car park, and a straighter journey on the east of the island (featuring fewer livestock) and we were back at our home for the evening - the lovely Druimnacroish B&B.


We tucked into a tasty lobster dinner at the oldest inn in the Hebrides, the Bellachroy Inn in Dervaig - the teeny village from which my great (x5) grandfather apparently hailed.


And thus ends a delightful Travel Diaries Day 1 on Mull.


Travel Diaries: Tips for Mull


Some useful details if you're planning your own trip:


  • There are handy toilets just across the road from the Calgary Bay car park.

  • There's also a gallery nearby, though we didn't have a chance to visit on this trip.

  • The ferry to Ulva runs Monday to Friday.

  • You can't book The Boathouse in advance.

  • Sheila's Cottage and Ulva Church were both closed at the time of writing.

  • The paths get very muddy - bring boots!




Thanks for reading :)

Linds x

😊🧡🍂


Founder, Falling Leaf Clothing





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